Ragdolls Are Only Indoor Cats

No Ragdoll should ever be let outdoors because they lack the natural instincts of most cats to defend or protect themselves. 

In addition, they wouldn’t be able to find their way back to your home.





         Tips To Make Your Ragdoll Cat Happy and SAFE


1.  When holding or picking up your cat or kitten, always put hand under back feet (cupping rear) and the other hand under front feet (also holding chest). 

    Hold kitten next to your chest.  All of these steps makes your cat feel safe.

    NEVER pick up a cat or kitten by the stomach or underbelly because this can cause intentional problems.


2.  Stroke lightly…not like petting a dog.


3.  When you want your kitten to go to sleep (while holding a kitten on your chest), gently stroke top of head and sides of face.  They also like you to lightly stroke under his or her chin.


4.  Hands are ONLY for “good.”   NEVER discipline using your hands, however you may use your hands to block an action.


5.  Always reach down UNDER their face.


6.  When traveling, ALWAYS put your cat or kitten in a closed crate because if you ever have an accident or get out of your vehicle, your pet may escape and then panic.

    Make sure your crate is large enough for he or she to turn around and stand up, but not so large that they can be thrown around inside (in case a crash occurs).


7.  Close all toilet lids.


8.  I refrigerate all kibble, along with opened canned cat/kitten food and and any unopened canned cat/kitten food is stored in a cold room.


9.  I’ve been feeding kittens on a flat dish, kibble and water in small bowls.  Before I serve the kitten canned food, I heat it in the microwave for 9 seconds. 

    If your kitten doesn’t eat his or her canned food within 20 minutes, remove it.

    Keep kibble available at all times (for free feeding).  Always provide fresh water.


11. Just in case, I always keep Nutri-Cal made by Vetoquinol Care (it’s a Patatable High-Calorie Nutrional Supplememt Gel which you may purchase from your vet or on the internet) because one never knows when a cat/kitten won’t want to eat or can’t eat.  By putting about a 1/4” of the gel (read instructions for correct amount) on a cat’s/kitten’s leg, he or she will lick it off.  At least, in emergencies, your cat/kitten will receive immediately quality nutrition.  I also keep Kitten Replacement Milk (KRM) handy if more or another type of nutrition is required.  I store both in the refrigerator or in a cold, dark place...until needed.













                                          Declawing


I strongly feel that Ragdoll cats shouldn’t be declawed as I’ve seen declawed cats develop arthritis.  Animal shelters have noted that the main reason cats are brought in is because declawed cats may become more aggressive (i.e. acting out with their teeth since they have no claws).


Before you make the decision to declaw your cat, there are some important facts you should know.  Declawing is not like a manicure.  It is serious surgery.  Your cat's claw is not a toenail. 

It is actually closely adhered to the bone.  So closely adhered that to remove the claw, the last bone of your the cat's claw has to be removed.  Declawing is actually an amputation of the last joint of your cat's "toes."  When you envision that, it becomes clear why declawing is not a humane act.  It is a painful surgery, with a painful recovery period.  And remember that during the time of recuperation from the surgery your cat would still have to use its feet to walk, jump and scratch in its litter box regardless of the pain it is experiencing.


The following website "Cat Scratching Solutions" (http://www.catscratching.com/) provides many solutions as well as and insight into the psychology of why cats scratch.  You can teach your cat to use your scratching posts (sisal posts are by far the best).  You can trim the front claws.  You can also employ aversion methods. One of the best solutions is Soft Paws® which are nail caps.